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Aspettando Timshel…

10/07/2021 399 Comments

I lavori di costruzione di Timshel proseguono. Nelle scorse settimane è stato messo in opera il pozzetto. Un lavoro certosino di piegatura e saldatura durato parecchi giorni. Ne è valsa la pena. La barca ora ha pozzetto accogliente, comodo, sicuro, nonostante le dimensioni necessariamente ridotte. Ore a pensare se e dove aggiungere qualche centrimetro, dove dare qualche grado di angolazione in più o in meno. Non avrei mai pensato che un lavoro, all’apparenza così noioso, possa essere invece tanto entusiasmante. Vedere un foglio di lamiera diventare l’ambiente che mi accoglierà per settimane, mesi e anni di navigazioni è inspiegabilmente emozionante.

  • il pozzetto di Timshel
  • il pozzetto di Timshel

Nel mentre però il richiamo del mare è sempre più forte. Per fortuna, anche grazie alla campagna di crowdfunding, ho molti amici che navigano. Nelle scorse settimane ho avuto modo di accompagnarli durante il trasferimento delle loro barche in vista della stagione estiva. Centinaia e centinaia di miglia lungo le coste italiane e greche.

Il primo viaggio è iniziato a Cervia su un splendido Hallberg Rassy 42 ketch, Vent Fin. Una barca che solo a guardarla ti dà l’idea di poterti portare ovunque nel mondo, dall’Antartide al Mar dei Caraibi. Una partenza complessa dato il basso fondale che si era formato di fronte all’uscita del porto. Sono stati necessari diversi tentativi ma alla fine siamo riusciti ad uscire. Su Timshel avremo la deriva mobile e quindi questi problemi non ci saranno ma è stato ugualmente molto formativo riuscire a cavarsela in questa situazione. Appena usciti ci ha accolto un bel vento, intorno ai 15kn da est. Randa di mezzana e genoa ci permettevano di fare 7-8 nodi di media. Non male!

Vent Fin

La navigazione notturna in quelle zone suscita sentimenti contrastanti. Da un lato un grande traffico, piattaforme di estrazione gas, allevamenti di pesci e mitili creano una sensazione di costante pericolo, ma allo stesso tempo la necessità di essere sempre attenti e in costante osservazione è tanto formativa quanto affascinante.

Ci siamo fermati a San Benedetto del Tronto, Santa Maria di Leuca, Crotone e Roccella Jonica. Tutti porti molto carini e ben attrezzati, dove siamo stati ben accolti e dove tornerei appena possibile. L’attraversamento del golfo di Taranto ha avuto, su tutto l’equipaggio, un forte impatto emotivo. Il giorno prima un gommone con 130 persone a bordo si era ribaltato in quello stesso mare, che a noi, nonostante navigassimo su una barca solida, robusta e sicura, suscitava timore reverenziale. Il pensiero è andato subito a quelle persone, le cui condizioni di vita sono tali da far preferire loro un viaggio in quel mare, in quelle condizioni, piuttosto che rimanere dall’altro lato del Mediterraneo.

Dopo la sosta a Crotone per rendere omaggio a Rino Gaetano, e quella a Roccella Jonica per imbarcare un nuovo membro dell’equipaggio, ci siamo diretti verso lo stretto di Messina. Il primo tratto da Roccella è stato tanto faticoso quanto esaltante. 20-25 nodi, bolina stretta, barca bella sbandata e mille bordi per riuscire a doppiare capo Spertivento. Otto ore per percorrere 25 miglia in linea d’aria ma alla fine ce l’abbiamo fatta!

Le condizioni nello stretto sono state piuttosto impegantive, abbiamo preso raffiche a quasi 30 nodi, di notte, ma per fortuna la direzione del vento e della corrente erano favorevoli.

Arrivati a Cetaro, sulla costa tirrenica della Calabria, siamo stati salutati da un meraviglioso branco di delfini. Vederli giocare sotto la prua è sempre emozionante, la ciliegina sulla torta di un viaggio unico.

I delfini ci salutano

750 miglia, passando dalla calma piatta al vento forte in condizioni sempre molto diverse. Un’esperienza bellissima e una grossa opportunità per imparare.

Appena sbarcato la voglia di navigare ancora diventava man mano sempre più pressante.

Si è presentata per fortuna l’occasione di imbarcarsi su un 64 piedi per un viaggio che partendo da Salerno arrivava in Grecia, a Kos. Una barca, Stella Maris, veramente incredibile. Costruita su un progetto di Roberto Starkel, è una imbarcazione che rasenta la perfezione. Per me, abituato a barche decisamente più “spartane”, è stata una scoperta. Le ore passate, durante i turni notturni, sulla seduta sopravvento del giardinetto di poppa mi hanno confermato, se mai ce ne fosse bisogno, che navigare è la cosa più bella del mondo.

Stella Maris

Sono stati giorni splendidi dove abbiamo visto e vissuto cose incredibili. Siamo passati, di notte, affianco allo Stromboli mentre eruttava. Uno spettacolo mozzafiato, un’emozione pazzesca. Il giorno dopo lo stretto di Messina, stavolta da nord a sud e con corrente contraria. Vedere i vortici creati dalla corrente e avere gorghi tutto attorno alla barca è impressionante. Le spadare, imbarcazioni caratteristiche dello Stretto, sono state la ciliegina sulla torta. La traversata dello Ionio, durata un paio di giorni, è stata tranquilla e rilassante. Per la prima volta ho avuto l’opportunità di utilizzare il gennaker in una navigazione d’altura. L’andatura perfetta, 10-15 kn al lasco e mare sostanzialmente piatto.

Spadare nello Stretto di Messina

L’arrivo a Pylos mi è sembrata una scena di un film fantasy, rocce a picco sul mare e un ingresso nascosto nella baia. Le notti successive sono state accompagnate da una luna piena come poche volte mi è capitato di vedere. In generale tutta la navigazione è stata tranquilla e rilassante, tranne che nell’ultimo tratto prima di arrivare a Kos, dove ho potuto saggiare il Meltemi. E’ veramente esaltante averlo, quando soffia a 20-25 nodi, al lasco. Viaggiavamo tranquillamente a 10kn di velocità con la barca che teneva la rotta da sola.

In attesa di Timshel non poteva andarmi meglio, sia per le barche sulle quali ho avuto la fortuna di imbarcarmi, sia per gli equipaggi con cui ho condiviso la navigazione. Una menzione particolare per Max, comandante della Vent Fin e Giuseppe, comandante della Stella Maris. Sono stati e saranno preziosi per il mio percorso di formazione nautica. La mia vocazione rimane indubbiamente la navigazione in solitaria ma quando incontri persone così è veramente bello navigare in compagnia.

Alla prossima navigazione!

Buon vento!

Benny
https://www.timshelboat.it

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